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Standard Maintenance
Intervals
0 - 60,000 Miles
Car Maintenance
Interval (in thousands of miles)
R=Replace I=Inspect
Maintenance Item
|
15
|
20
|
25
|
30
|
35
|
40
|
45
|
50
|
60
|
| Air
Filter |
R
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
R
|
| Anti-freeze/Coolant |
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
| Battery |
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
| Belts |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Brakes-Pads/Fluid |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
| Differential |
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
| Fuel
Filter |
|
|
R
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
|
| Radiator
Hoses |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
| Engine
Oil |
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R |
|
Power Steering
Fluid |
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
| Shocks
/ Struts |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
|
I
|
| Spark
Plugs |
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
|
| Spark
Plug Wires |
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
|
| Tires |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
| Transmission
Fluid |
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
R
|
I
|
| Wiper
Blades |
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R
|
I/R |
| Washer
Fluid |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
| Exterior
Care |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
| Timing
Belt |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
R
|
| Dist
Cap / Ignition Rotor |
|
|
I
|
|
|
R
|
|
|
|
| Lights
& Bulbs |
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
I
|
| A/C
System |
|
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
I
|
CV
Boots/Joints or
Drive Shaft/U-Joints |
|
|
|
I
|
|
|
|
I
|
|
| Front
Suspension |
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
|
I
|
I
|
Explanations of Recommendations
THESE ARE STANDARD
GUIDELINES - VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS ALL RECOMMEND
ADDITIONAL ITEMS AT DIFFERENT TIMES - PLEASE CONSULT
YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR DETAILED TIMELINES ON
MAINTENENANCE OF YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE...
Air filter - Replace the air filter about every
15,000 miles for normal driving conditions. A dirty
air filter usually will not cause the engine to run
bad, stall, or misfire. A dirty filter can cause
reduced fuel economy and higher exhaust emission
gases.
Antifreeze/Coolant - Inspect: Check the fluid level
in the plastic “overflow reservoir” and the actual
level of coolant inside the radiator. You should be
able to visually see the coolant level inside the
radiator when the engine is cold. Caution: remove
the radiator cap only after engine has cooled, and
it is safe to do so. If the antifreeze is dirty or
rusty colored, or has lost its over
heating/anti-freezing capability it should be
flushed and replaced. Regular life antifreeze is
bright green in color, and the newer “extended”
longer life antifreeze is red in color. DexCool is
yellow in color. Specific types are for different
types of vehicles and should not be substituted for
one another.
Replace: Drain and flush old coolant from the
radiator and reservoir bottle, inspect the heater
and radiator hoses and clamps for replacement, and
install a new radiator cap. A vented replacement
radiator cap safely removes hot steam from the
radiator and makes emergency road side coolant
inspections easier and safer.
Battery - Check terminals and cables--loose or
dirty battery cables are a common “no start”
condition. Cable ends and battery terminals should
be cleaned with a wire brush and light sand paper
periodically to remove any corrosion build up.
Battery terminal protecting spray coatings can also
be helpful in reducing the formation of corrosion. I
Caution: remove all metal objects like wrist watches
and rings before working around a battery—a spark or
fire can occur.
BatteryLoad - Battery "load" is how much load or
drain can be placed on the electrical system before
the battery begins to discharge itself. Think of it
as how much electricity the battery can store before
having to be recharged. It is not uncommon for
batteries to go completely "flat" or discharged
without ever giving a warning signal to the
operator. Have the auto mechanic check the car
battery condition and load levels at every oil
change interval if the battery is over 2 years old
to ensure the battery will not leave you
unexpectedly stranded.
A weak battery that is not storing enough power will
cause the alternator to work harder and possibly
cause premature alternator failure. Dirty or
corroded battery terminals can severely reduce the
lifespan of the battery and alternator. A quick and
inexpensive battery check and cable inspection can
be done at each oil change. The replacement battery
should be the same size, have the same battery cable
connections, and should be the same electrical
capacity as the original battery.
Belts - Check for worn or loose belts. Belts should
be replaced if they are worn on the edges, frayed,
or cracked. Do not spray silicone or WD40-type
chemicals on a noisy belt—it will usually just make
the noise worse. Check the tension on each belt, and
see if anything is rubbing or coming in contact with
it.
Brakes - Inspect: Check the brake fluid level. The
fluid level should only need to be slightly topped
off occasionally. If more than 2 oz. of fluid is
needed, the brake system should be inspected for
leaks and component wear. Add only the recommended
type of brake fluid as listed in the owner’s manual.
Do not add any other fluid to the brake fluid
reservoir, and keep all foreign objects like fingers
out of the fluid. The fluid in the reservoir should
be clear in appearance and free of dirt and debris.
Replace: Brake fluid retains moisture and should be
flushed and re-bled (remove the air from the system)
to keep brakes working effectively.
Check brake pad and shoe wear. Don’t wait until you
hear grinding noises to have the brakes inspected.
Have brakes checked periodically for wear. Some
warning signs of brake problems are: noises when
brakes are applied, the steering wheel shakes when
brakes are applied, needing to add more than 2 oz of
brake fluid to the brake fluid reservoir, a soft or
squishy brake pedal, or the brake pedal goes to the
floor slowly while brakes are applied.
Differential Fluid – (A rear differential is only
found on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.)
Inspect: The rear differential (commonly referred to
as the rear end) fluid or grease should be checked
during each routine oil change and topped off as
needed with the fluid prescribed in the owner’s
manual.
Replace: Drain and flush the rear end fluid
periodically to remove any metal filings that have
normally accumulated in the differential housing.
Replace the differential cover gasket and add any
recommended supplemental additive prescribed in the
owner’s manual.
Fuel Filter - Fuel filters become clogged with dirt
and debris during normal operation and should be
replaced to increase performance, extend fuel pump
life, and aid in fuel economy.
Radiator and Heater Hoses -
Inspect: To check for leaks or bulges with the
engine cold, squeeze the radiator hoses with one
hand at all points along the hose. If soft spots,
bulges, or a "cracking feeling" is identified,
replace ALL water hoses at the same time.
Replace: Replace all water hoses including heater,
bypass, and radiator hoses at the same time. The
coolant and radiator cap should also be replaced at
this time.
Engine Oil -
Inspect: Check oil level when engine is cold and
with vehicle on level ground.
Replace: Change oil and filter. Check all fluids,
tires and air pressure, air filter, belts and hoses
and spare tire condition when changing the engine
oil. This is also a great time to clean the
corrosion from the battery cables. Check owners
manual for specific oil recommendation.
Power Steering Fluid
Inspect: Check level. Power steering fluid can
either be pink or clear in color, usually only a
very small amount is needed to top off fluid level.
If more than 2 oz. is needed, have the system
checked for leaks or wear.
Replace: Power steering fluid just like any other
fluid becomes dirty and contaminated and should be
replaced with clean fluid periodically. Dirty power
steering fluid can cause the power steering pump or
the power steering gear assemblies to fail and can
cause premature wear to occur.
Shock Absorbers and Struts -
Inspect: Check for fluid leaks around the shock.
Some shocks are filled with oil and a visible fluid
leak can be detected. Excessive bumpy ride, leaning,
or swaying in one direction more than normal on
brake application or around turns can also indicate
worn or damaged shocks.
Replace: Replace all four shocks/struts at the same
time to get maximum benefit and drivability. In some
cases a wheel alignment should be performed after
new struts are installed.
Spark Plugs - Worn or faulty spark plugs can cause
misfire, poor fuel mileage, loss of power, and slow
or extended starting time. Spark plug wires should
be replaced when replacing spark plugs. OEM
recommended plugs should be used in order to keep
your vehicle in peak operating condition.
Spark Plug Wires - Spark plug wires should be
replaced when replacing spark plugs to get maximum
performance and life expectancy of spark plugs.
Tires --
Inspect: Check pressure and tread wear. Check air
pressure cold unless otherwise described in the
owner's manual. Inspect tires for uneven tread wear,
punctures, bulges, or cuts in sidewall of the tire.
Rotate and balance: Routine rotation and balancing
can greatly extend the life of your tires. Most
front end "shake and shimmy" complaints can be
attributed to out of balance, or out of round tires.
Transmission Fluid -
Inspect: Usually the transmission fluid level is
checked with the engine hot and in park, and with
engine running. Check your owner’s manual for proper
fluid type and proper fluid level inspection
procedures. Automatic transmission fluid is usually
pink in color. Most standard "stick" shift
transmissions will have a drain plug to service the
fluid. Some stick shift transmissions use engine oil
as a lubricant; consult your owner’s manual when
servicing.
Replace: Consult vehicle owner manual for proper
fluid type and service interval. If applicable,
replace the internal automatic transmission filter
or clean the re-usable screen when changing the
transmission fluid. A transmission pan gasket will
also be required during a filter change. Some newer
model vehicles require special additives, consult
your owners manual
Windshield Wipers --
Inspect: Check wiper blades for wear and washer
fluid level during a regular oil and filter change.
Don’t make the mistake of never thinking about
replacing or inspecting the wiper blades until you
really need them
Replace: Some wiper blades are different lengths for
driver and passenger side. Measure old blades before
replacing with new ones. Some manufacturers offer
different replacement wiper blade types (i.e. for
snow and ice, off road, and severe duty).
Windshield Washer Fluid - Check level.
Anti-freezing and water repelling additives can also
be added to the washer fluid reservoir. Not only
will washer fluid aid in removing dirt from the
windshield, but also it will act as a lubricant to
prolong the life of the wiper blade. Adding rubbing
alcohol to the washer fluid can be harmful to the
rubber on the wiper blades.
Exterior Care- Regular car washes can remove air
borne chemicals through "acid rain" that get
deposited onto the paint surface, and dull the layer
of "clear coating" that is meant to protect the
paint and help promote shine and luster. Car wash
soap should be used and not dish or household soaps,
as their chemical makeup can damage the clear coat.
Semi-annual waxing of the exterior paint surface
will help to protect this important clear coat.
Timing Belt - Replace as scheduled if applicable
for your vehicle. The timing belt is a rubber belt
that drives the engine’s internal components. The
timing belt is not easily visible and should be
replaced at the indicated mileage and time not on
visual wear like a normal drive belt. If the timing
belt breaks, the engine stops and costly internal
engine damage can occur. The water pump on some
vehicles is driven by the timing belt, and should be
replaced when replacing the timing belt. Consult
owner’s manual or ask if this is the case on your
car.
Distributor Cap/Ignition Rotor – These items should
be inspected/replaced when replacing spark plugs and
spark plug wires, or when a “major tune-up” is
called for. The distributor cap is where the other
end of the spark plug wires connect to, and the
ignition rotor in underneath the distributor cap.
Some newer model vehicles do not have a distributor
at all. These cars are designed with Distributorless
Ignition Systems (D.I.S.), and therefore do not have
these parts.
Lights and Bulbs – Save yourself the hassle of
failing a vehicle inspection or being pulled over by
the police for a tail or brake light bulb out. Have
all lights checked when performing a regular engine
oil change.
A/C Refrigerant Level and Pressures - Air
conditioning refrigerant commonly known as "R134A"
should be checked for proper pressures and level of
refrigerant oil periodically. Low refrigerant and
refrigerant oil levels can cause premature wear on
air compressors, and decrease overall performance of
the a/c system. Although the a/c system is a sealed
unit, it is not uncommon to have to add small
amounts of refrigerant periodically due to small
leaks and seepage. Freon is a gas that is under high
pressure and should only be serviced by a trained
professional.
CV Boots and CV Joints - Used mostly on front wheel
drive cars, Constant Velocity (CV) joints are shafts
that connect the transmission to the wheels with
knuckle joints on either end of the shaft. The
shafts provide the power to turn the wheels by
linking the transmission to the wheel. There are two
shafts and four joints on most front wheel drive
cars. CV boots are made of pliable rubber to cover
the CV joint. Torn CV boots allow grease meant to
lubricate the joint to escape, and allows dirt and
debris to enter inside the joint. A worn CV joint
usually produces a clicking noise from the wheel
area on hard turns.
Drive Shaft and U-Joints - Rear wheel drive cars
and trucks have drive shafts in place of CV joints
that are found on front wheel drive cars. The drive
shaft links the transmission to the rear
differential to provide power to turn the wheels.
Most drive shafts have two or three U-joints
connecting the shaft to the transmission and rear
differential. The shaft and joints should be checked
for wear during regular engine oil changes. Some
U-joints can and should be greased during the
“grease job” portion of the oil change.
Front End Alignment - The front end components of a
vehicle can be out of alignment, but not give any
indication or warning signs. Shimmying and shakes in
the front end are usually not caused by the car
being “out of alignment,” but by out of balance or
lack of rotation with the tires. The vehicle pulling
to one side, or unusual tire wear are the two most
common “out of alignment” warning signs. Check the
alignment and all wearable parts in the front end
periodically. Always have the front end aligned when
replacing tires. A front end alignment is commonly
referred to as a "four wheel alignment" these days.
Some adjustments to the rear alignment are available
on most newer model vehicles, thus the term four
wheel alignment.
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